A Bucket List Meal at Elkano
It was one of those moments that you pinch yourself –wondering is this real? Standing under a beautiful tree amongst Txakoli vineyards as Aitor Arregi explains the origin story of Elkano. He talks about the village of Getaria and its rich maritime heritage. Its location on the Cantabrian Sea and the Bay of Biscay gives it access to a bounty of seafood that has shaped its culinary identity. Aitor talks about how important the fishermen are to Elkano (and other restaurants in the village) before pointing out the boats that supply the restaurant with its fresh catch.
The sun begins to set as Aitor waxes poetically about the sea and how it’s shaped the restaurant both past and present. He doesn’t talk about Michelin stars or World’s Best lists–he talks about family, community, the intricacies of the bay, seasonality, and how it all translates to taste. His philosophy is deeply rooted in two ideals: quality product and not fucking it up. He uses few ingredients and honors the fish with simple cooking techniques: grill fire for one.
He dives deep–talking about the fish’s habitat, what it eats, and its diet. The life cycle of the fish determines the best time for consumption. He emphasises the flavor of a fish is intricately linked to its environment and diet, so fish from the shoreline will taste different than those in deeper waters. It’s all very fascinating and you can tell this man LOVES what he does.
He doesn’t let the recognition distract from what he loves to do and it was a powerful moment. His passion for hospitality and culinary excellence reminded me very much of some of my meals in Japan where they were so dialed in and focused on mastering their craft. If you make the pilgrimage to Elkano–chances are Aitor will be bopping around the dining room–deconstructing turbot tableside: letting guests know which side was facing the sun or even spoon-feeding you the most divine piece of fish cheek.
Eating a turbot at Elkano is one of life’s greatest pleasures. They highlight and celebrate every part of the fish from the charred skin to the gelatin-rich wings. Distinct flavors and textures provide pure culinary bliss. And if that wasn’t enough–Nico, the sommelier at Elkano, has a great list of wines sure to create magic.
It’s not your hyped look-at-me-now restaurant trying to prove something. Its a restaurant thats been doing it for 60 years–a restaurant built on history, passion, sustainability, seasonality, & community. A truly special place.