Travel Chats with Globetrotters | Travel Part II
As promised, our late summer travel edition part two - featuring a Q&A with Vicki & Mary, Travel Pros, and a couple of Popina's most regular diners...
A Travel Chat with Vicki Denig
Vicki a travel expert who spends most of her time between New York and Paris. When she’s not eating & drinking in Popina’s backyard–she’s traveling the world in search of great food & wine.
Where are you traveling this year? Any 2025 trips in the works?
Living between New York and Paris, I definitely travel around France quite a bit—Burgundy, the south etc. So far this year, I’ve also traveled to Scotland, Japan (Tokyo, Kyoto), the Caribbean, Madrid, Greece, and Italy three times (Rome, Lake Como, Piedmont) to name a few! I’m pretty last minute with planning, and usually only know where I’m going about a month or two out. I'm currently writing these responses from Etna, will be heading to Marseille next week, then possibly London at the end of the month!
Recent travel standouts: countries/regions, hotels/resorts/guest houses?
While in Scotland this past January, I did a day tour through the Highlands and it was unforgettable. Don’t sleep on these types of organized tours! Although some of the bigger ones can appear lame, there are definitely hidden gems to be found. Seek out smaller companies / groups for a safer bet (for example, I used Rabbie’s for this particular experience). Seeing the black-hued waters of the Loch Ness with chunky snowflakes falling from the sky is a scene I'll never forget.
In terms of hotels, the Four Seasons Sayan in Bali was absolutely insane – think of it like a 5-star, jungle-based treehouse. I also got to check out Hotel Grand Tremezzo, a super retro hotel in Lake Como, earlier this year, which was awesome (and has the best pool in the entire region). For a random US-based hotel that I’ve loved (and sticking with the retro theme), The Dive Motel in Nashville is seriously something else! Don't be alarmed when you find a disco ball hanging over the bed in your room...
Food & Drink recommendations from a recent trip or from a place you often travel:
Recently, I was blown away by the small plates at Pharaoh, an off-the-beaten-path restaurant in Athens known for its natural wine and wood-fired cooking. It was my first time in the city, so I also checked out Heteroclito and Oinoscent (solid wine bars), as well as Baba au Rhum for cocktails. Be sure to end the night with a martini and next-level views of the Acropolis at the rooftop bar at Grande Hotel Bretagne.
Top Food City?
My Parisian friends are going to hate me for this one, but I’m gonna have to say Rome here! I’m regularly blown away by the simplest things—a fluffy focaccia, creamy cornetto al pistachio, or well-made cacio e pepe. Some of my regular haunts include Roscioli (duh), The Court (serious cocktails with the best views of the Colosseum – shoutout to Matteo and his team for simply being the best!), Trapazzino (wine bar with a strong emphasis on Lazio’s local grape variety, Cesanese), and Jerry Thomas Speakeasy (world-class cocktails)
Do you have any Travel Rituals?
What to wear on plane, hang at airport lounge, favorite airplane snack, early to airport/late to airport? Martini at the bar airport? Favorite drink on flight? Everyone’s got their travel rituals, though mine are nothing out of the ordinary. I pretty much wear the same thing on every overnight flight—stretchy rag & bone jeans and a black t-shirt from Joni’s in Montauk, as well as thick cycling socks, Asics running sneakers, and a sweatshirt from my go-to, NYC-based workout studio, AARMY. I basically get to the airport as late as possible, so no lounge time, then indulge in my favorite ‘guilty pleasure’ drink on the flight (rum & diet coke!)
Travel hacks -favorite credit card, booking flights on a tuesday (lol)?
I haven’t personally noticed any difference re: booking flights on Tuesdays, but I’ve had luck with getting better seats at the equivalent of a much cheaper price by booking in Economy and using miles to upgrade (nothing too out of the ordinary here). On that note, Delta Amex Platinum card all the way! I’ve heard from friends that the Reserve, which in theory should be better, actually isn’t worth it, so stick with the Platinum if you’ve got it. \
Worst Travel Experience:
Travel nightmare - In September 2021, I was heading to France (for a funeral, no less) and got fully stranded at Newark Airport due to Tropical Storm Ida. The airport was a MADHOUSE – no one helping, people sleeping on floors, no taxis or Ubers to be found, etc. Thankfully I’m not shy and found a good-looking duo getting into an Escalade going back into the city to drop them at The Plaza for the night and begged them to take me with them. Not only did they get me back into the city overnight, they also used their connections to ensure I got on their flight to Paris the next day! We all met up at Willi’s Wine Bar upon arriving for a celebratory bottle of Clape Renaissance. They’re two of my favorite people, and I still see them when they make their annual jaunt to France each year (shoutout to Russ and Heather, you guys saved my life!)
First thing you do when planning a trip?
When planning a trip, the first thing I do—after booking flights, of course—is research top bars and restaurants to check out! Hotels can wait.
Any advice for planning a successful trip?
I think striking the perfect amount of planning / leaving room for spontaneity is key. You’ll definitely want to make sure you have reservations at sought-after spots that require them, but one of the best parts of travel is the simple discovery of it all. Leave room to stroll around and be curious, you never know what you’ll find.
Favorite Hotel?
I don’t necessarily have a favorite, but in addition to the Four Seasons Sayan and Hotel Grand Tremezzo mentioned above, I’ve also recently loved The Stafford (London) and TRUNK Yoyogi Park (Tokyo)
Favorite Airline?
Delta
Favorite Beach?
Balos Beach (Crete)
Favorite Travel book/Guide?
Do you follow anyone travel blogs or IG? I don’t really follow anyone specific, but I definitely refer to Condé Nast Traveler as a trusted source
What's on the bucket list?
So many places! Top three currently would probably be Egypt, Iceland, and India
Neighborhood Guide | Paris
Favorite neighborhood to stay? I’m biased here, but my home neighborhood of the 11th is where it’s at!
Favorite spots to drink wine?
Bonvivant, Le Mary Celeste, Le Saint Sébastien, Delicatessen Place, Le Grand Bain, Ici-même – so many, the list goes on!
Favorite Bistro?
Astier for sure
Splurge meal?
I don’t really splurge on meals in Paris – why do so when there’s so much quality food at affordable / standard prices to be found? However, I've heard incredible things about La Tour d'Argent and Arpège, both of which are on my bucket list, so I'd be happy to make exceptions for those!
Things to avoid in Paris?
Not necessarily avoid, but I'd say that skipping out on the city's smaller museums in lieu of the bigger ones is a mistake. Musée d'Orsay is great, though I find the Louvre to be overwhelming. On the contrary, the smaller Musée Rodin and Musée de l'Orangerie are two of my favorites. Also, this probably goes for most cities, but I'd definitely skip any restaurants that have menus with photographs outside their entrance. Hard pass!
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A Travel Chat with Mary Holland
Where are you traveling this year?
I was recently in Senegal, Copenhagen, Mexico and Panama.
Next stop Madagascar!
Recent travel standouts: countries/regions, hotels/resorts/guest houses?
A few weeks ago I stayed at Casa Teo 2 in Mexico City. It’s a rentable apartment above one of my favorite restaurants in the city (Ticuchi) from chef Enrique Olvera.
Food & Drink recommendations from a recent trip or from a place you often travel:
In Mexico City I ate at Ultramarinos, a new restaurant from Lucho Martinez, a brilliant chef whose career I’ve been following for a few years. Whenever I’m in the city I always go to Tichuchi. I’ll either meet up with friends for one too many mezcals, or, if I’m on my own, I’ll have a tyaluda and mezcal at the bar. On my trip to Copenhagen I frequented Auren’s Deli (twice!), a simple restaurant from one of the former Amass chefs. They serve great seasonal plates: tomato on bread, bean salads… the kind of things you want after eating many tasting meals. Also, Lido, a gorgeous new bakery and cafe where you can grab a quintessential Copenhagen breakfast: a roll with butter cheese and ham. It’s a five minute walk from the harbor, so I’d highly recommend a post-meal dip.
Top Food Cities?
Mexico City, Copenhagen, Tokyo, Lima, Cape Town
Do you have any Travel Rituals?
What to wear on plane, hang at airport lounge, favorite airplane snack, early to airport/late to airport? Martini at the bar airport? Favorite drink on flight? When (and why) did everyone start wearing leggings on planes?
Travel Myths --debunk a travel myth you hear often:
That travel should be totally seamless. Sure, you don’t want it to be incredibly hard, and no one likes a delay, but the whole point of travel is to challenge you a tiny bit.
Travel nightmare story?
A man once exploded (on both ends) as we were about to take off from Newark to Cape Town. We taxied back to the gate and he was swiftly removed from the plane, but they had to remove the seat because it was deemed a biohazard to fly! What ensued was hours of delays.
First thing you do when planning a trip?
I check Google to see how flight prices are looking. If it’s for holiday, I generally like to go somewhere I know and love (a small coastal town in South Africa) or somewhere that’s totally new to me (like Senegal!). Or, honestly, I just go back to Mexico because I can’t get enough of that country.
Any advice for planning a successful trip?
Go somewhere that excites and maybe unnerves you! Travel is meant to throw you out of your comfort zone.
Favorite Hotel?
There are many, but Hotel Esencia is among them.
Favorite Airline?
KLM for the tiny houses (if you’re in business class) or ANA because who can resist sake on a flight?
Favorite Beach?
A wild beach along the east coast of South Africa.
Troncones on the Pacific Coast of Mexico.
Neighborhood Guide // Pick a city (Cape Town?)
Favorite neighborhood to stay?
Dorp. The views are outrageous.
Favorite spots to drink wine?
Leo’s Wine Bar on Bree Street, they have great local wines and such a cool vibe. You’ll catch locals spilling onto the pavement until the wee hours. I’d also suggest a visit to The (secret) Gin Bar, hidden behind a chocolate shop. South Africa makes some brilliant gins, mostly from herbaceous local fynbos, a plant species can’t be found anywhere else on earth. The cocktails in Cape Town aren’t as good as New York, so I tend to avoid them at most places except here.
Favorite Bakery or Cafe?
Arthur’s Mini Super in Seapoint. There are so many reasons I love this café, not least because it’s co-owned by a good friend. They make the best coffee in town (this says a lot in a city with a great coffee culture), best enjoyed on the sidewalk where you can catch glimpses of the Atlantic Ocean and feel the breeze. Anything they put on bread here is so.damn. good: pan con tamate, anchovies, bacon and avocado, you can’t go wrong. Oh, and don’t forget to ask for a rusk… a delicious South African breakfast ‘biscuit’ (not unlike biscotti), best dipped in coffee. Dunk it for too long and it will go soggy, but too short and it’ll be too hard. Don’t worry, you’ll get the hang of it.
Meal you can’t miss?
MLILO at the Time Out Market from Vusi Ndlovu. Okay, so the Time Out Market doesn't sound like the sexiest place to grab a meal, but eating chef Ndlovu’s food is reason to go. He’s originally from Zimbabwe but riffs on food from all over the continent–jollof rice from Lagos, street corn from Mombasa.
Splurge Meal?
Chef’s Warehouse at Tintswalo, set on the ocean, surrounded by mountains. There is no better place for a long, lazy lunch. The food is superb: small sharing-style plates (which I generally hate since it became a trend, but love in this situation) centered around seafood by one of the city’s most celebrated chefs. If you’re keen for an adventure outside the city, Wolfgat in Paternoster and Good Together at Rozendal are also unmissable.
What to avoid?
Overpriced fish and chips at the V&A Waterfront. Sure, the restaurants right by the water, but they’re usually generic, expensive, average and teeming with tourists.