Popina Wine Trip Recap
Layover in Rome // Day 1
Sleeping on planes is tough for me. I usually do some work or end up catching up on the latest tv series or movies. This trip was all about old school flicks like Little Giants, Cool Runnings, and the Sandlot. Before I knew it they were handing out soggy breakfast calzones and coffee.
Grabbed a taxi and didn’t skip a beat: heading right to Roscioli Forno. We stopped by Supplizio (I remember it being way better) & then hit Il Goccetto. From there we had a Negroni at a random cafe then walked over to Al Moro. Hit another Negroni then transitioned to some Emidio Pepe Trebbiano and Cerasuolo. We then capped it off with some Nervi-Conterno Gattinara & of course some braulio (grappa for Nico).
Bar San Calistro seems to be a super young crowd nowadays; but still good vibes. The entire piazza fills up with people drinking Negroni, spritz, and peroni. We grabbed a taxi to the Bulgari Hotel for a Whiskey highball then to Wisdomless where I had an incredible Concord grape cocktail. Only Chase and I made the final nightcap at Jerry Thomas Project—one of Rome’s top cocktail spots. Made it till 3am then called it: not bad for no sleep.
Day 2 // Tuscany
Up at 8am and off to Tremini to pick up our rental car. We grabbed some water, espresso, and panini from a corner cafe while we waited for our Uber. The hangover hits when our driver bobs & weaves through morning traffic, down the cobblestone streets of Ponte.
The car rental wasn’t as painful as the usual process; but still not as seamless as you’d hope. Next thing you know we’re back navigating the crazy traffic of Rome —dodging everything from motorbikes to double-decker buses & oblivious tourists.
Three hours later, we arrive in Montalcino. We stopped at Vineria Alperta for a quick lunch—though it’s a place built for long lunches and epic dinners. The wine list is super impressive; but we didn’t get to indulge. We rushed through a few pastas and a salad, so we weren’t late to meet Beatrice. Despite being super busy with harvest —Bea carved out some time to show us around the Stella di Campalto estate.
We toured the vineyards, learned a little more about her winemaking ethos, tasted some barrel samples, and shared some great conversation. Bea has such amazing energy– perhaps our next Popina wine trip to Montalcino? We wanted to stop back at Vineria but we made our way back to the villa where we had a private chef prepare some local specialties. Hours later, we hadn’t moved.
Day 3 // Tuscany Continued
Up & at em’—this time hitting the road for Montevertine. Martino, the proprietor of Montevertine showed us around and talked us through the history of the estate. We definitely came at a hectic time as his phone was constantly ringing, but he was super gracious with his time and attention. The wines have always been a benchmark to Sangiovese, so it was really nice to visit and learn more.
Lunch at Casa Porciatti on Martino’s recommendation. Nice wine selection with plenty to drink —though some higher mark ups on the fancy wine. We did scoop a magnum of Clos Rougeard Breze 2013 that we scooped for aperitivo hour back at the house. Time for some work, so I grab my laptop and check in with the team. A quick, yet treacherous run to earn more pasta and vino. It felt amazing to exercise but it wasn’t easy.
We popped the mag and ate some cheese, breadsticks, and cured meats. We head to Cortona, a cool little village 25 mins away from our villa. At this point it’s pitch black so we can’t really explore the hilltop village in all its glory, but I heard it’s a great place if you like history and are curious about ancient civilizations or even just want a good view. Someone mentioned it’s the backdrop to Under the Tuscan Sun; but I’m not sure I’ve ever seen it.
I’m not positive but I don’t think we were supposed to drive into the center; because the roads were extremely tight and everyone was looking at us (read: silly Americans). But we managed to find a side street to park out of the way, not so far from Osteria del Teatro—our destination. At Teatro we dipped croutons into molten cheese w truffle, ravaged through multiple pastas, and finished with a beautiful bistecca. I couldn’t not order 2016 Pergole Torte, so we did that and ended with some local amaro. Driving home, even more terrifying than driving there. A few beers back at the villa & 2am comes too early.
Day 4 // Back in Rome
Back in the car and on the road—we racked up quite the mileage. Returned the rental car without any scratches or dents: nice work Joey. Grab a taxi to our Airbnb with a quick stop along the way: apparently Rome has a pajama shop that is not to be missed.
The Airbnb is on via Giulia, which I always love. It’s a beautiful street and convenient to lots of my favorite standbys. Our friend Katie Parla is in town so she takes us around–there’s no better guide in Rome. We catch up on life and snack all around: panino from Forno, Cheese from Beppe, and beer from Baladin. Katie is super knowledgeable on all things Italy, but goes deep on Rome. She’s originally from NJ so she’s my people ;)
A few Negroni at J.K. Place and were cruising till dinner. The service at J.K. is always really great so it’s always a fun stop even if you’re not staying there. Dinner at Cesare al Pellegrino with a quick digestivo at Il Goccetto out on the streets.
Day 5-11
A traveler’s dilemma: whether or not to talk about the place you just visited. The food, the people, the landscape–it was all so amazing; but do you keep it to yourself or do you shout it from the mountaintops? I’ve been here before; you enjoyed a place so much you don’t want it to change; but you also feel an obligation to let me in on the secret so they could experience it too. Besides, I’ve never been much of a hoarder and things are always better when shared. So allow me to be your spokesperson, Abruzzo.
It was my third time to Abruzzo and I already can’t wait to go back. Perhaps the reason I like Abruzzo so much is because it's not popular and doesn’t draw the attention of other regions like Tuscany, Sicily, or the Veneto. Three hours from Rome–you’ll need a car because taking the train isn’t so easy. A car will help you take full advantage of Abruzzo’s diverse landscape from the mountain villages to the rocky beaches. More than half of Abruzzo consists of natural parks and nature reserves; so if you like the great outdoors–this could be a place for you.
We went for wine! No, not for the mass produced Montepooooch! We’re here for overachieving trebbiano and the dazzling pecorino, here for the seductive Cerasuolos, and the age-worthy Montepulciano. Winemakers like Cristiana Tiberio, Stefano Papetti, and Chiara Pepe are determined to put Abruzzo on the map and they're doing a damn good job.
We spent the first four nights at the Emidio Pepe agriturismo & it was the best culinary experience I’ve had in a long time–as that's saying a lot considering earlier this year I was lucky enough to stay at Casadonna: the home to Reale, a three-michelin starred restaurant by Cristiana & Niko Romito. While Casadonna might have the edge for the luxury jetset–I felt at home in Abruzzo.
It’s a family affair at Pepe; which was one of the coolest things to witness. I can’t recall the last time I spent more than one day consecutively with my family; so the idea of being in business with them and still wanting to have dinner with them was pretty amazing. The love was palpable and it didn’t stop with their blood –it was shared with their amazing staff.
The Pepe agriturismo was super inspiring. The staff was incredibly knowledgeable and so welcoming & kind. They were always there whether you needed a coffee or just wanted to chat. Giusseppe was particularly impressive with his knowledge of the entire operation. He could tell you the weather conditions in 2004 & how that affected the wine, pontificate about biodynamic principles, or tell you about a local cheese that made its way onto the lunch menu. The passion was reinvigorating.
We got lucky–we got to witness harvest and I even got a shot at the destemmer. Everything is hands on and Chiara wouldn’t have it any other way. She laughed when thinking about the technology that would make her life way easier; but she wants to touch everything, a true labor of love. During our stay we had a few meals on property and they were truly spectacular. Nothing was fussy–though you saw the care and intention behind everything they served. Simple and sometimes rustic–many of the ingredients were sourced from the property while everything else was purchased by trusted local vendors. All these meals were paired by a wide-range of treasures pulled from the Pepe cellar. Perhaps an 04 trebbiano with some pesto, some cerasuolo with arrosticini, or even 83 or 95 Montepulciano with some cheese? Even breakfast outside overlooking the vineyards was a magical experience: sipping on some single origin coffee (soooo not Italian) and enjoying some granola.
One night we ventured out to Osteria dei Maltagliati–a short walk from Pepe. To my knowledge–Maltagliati just opened last fall and is run by Maicol and Federica. The restaurant is beautiful with exposed brick and wood-fired oven playing center stage. Maicol does the cooking–paying tribute to Abruzzo’s bountiful ingredients and preparing them in inventive & delicious ways. Federica runs the front of the house & puts together a great wine list. A hidden gem in Torano Nuovo.
We snuck out of Abruzzo for a quick second to Ascoli Piceno in the Marche for a day with Matteo Meletti. We were warmly welcomed at the distillery by Matteo and his family. Family-owned and operated for more than 150 years, Mauro and Matteo Meletti represent the 5th generation of the family to carry forth the business. We had a great chat about the history of Meletti, learned the process of their fine products, and toured the distillery. We headed to the Meletti Cafe for a private lunch on the second floor followed by a walking tour of Ascoli Piceno to learn a little more about its history. We ended back at the cafe on Piazza del Popolo for coffee and aperitivo before heading back to Abruzzo. Our last night at Pepe –we scrapped a seated dinner for a more casual vibe.
Naturally, Billy jumped on the grill and helped cook some arrosticini. I think I had over 25 skewers; but one of the cousins topped 40. We opened up some burgundy, cranked the music, and ended up with some impromptu cocktails from the bottles that Matteo graciously brought for us to try. It was hard to leave; but the Pepe family was in the middle of harvest, so they have plenty of work to do. We are incredibly grateful for their time and hospitality: what a special place.
After Pepe, we headed to the beach; but not without a stop at Agricola Tiberio in Cugnoli. Cristiana visited Popina earlier this year, so I was super excited to reconnect with her and see where the magic happens. Standing in the vineyard–Cristiana points out the Majella and Gran Sasso mountains noting them as big influences on the growing season. Wikipedia doesn’t tell you much about Cugnoli; but Cristiana is determined to put it on the map and she’s doing that by producing world-class wine with her brother, Antonio.
Cristiana & Antonio welcomed us with open arms & prepared a delicious lunch for our group. We started outside with some 2009 pecorino and some local snacks; then went inside where we feasted like royalty. Magnums of 2013 Fonte Canale & 2014 Colle Vota were insanely generous & paired beautifully with some ravioli made with fresh local ricotta. These are two wines that I’m still thinking about.
Back at the hotel–I break away for a quick float in the Adriatic. The beach starts out with rocks; but a few steps of pain will bring lots of pleasure. The sun sets & not a person in sight; which means I’m probably late for dinner. Aperitivo at the hotel then off to Essenza Cucina di Mare for a seafood dinner. Not much drinking from the group; but popped a few bottles including 14 Cristal and some Amorotti.
Breakfast at The Supporter Deluxe, our hotel, isn’t as good as the breakfast at Pepe or the epic breakfast at Casadonna; but you get the look at the sea; so they got that going for them. Besides–we’ve eaten so much: breakfast is mostly just coffee for me. On the bus again and off to Loreto Aprutino or LA as Stefano jokes in his Dodgers cap. I’ve been a big fan of the De Fermo wines; but never knew the story behind it.
Stefano Papetti met Eloisa de Fermo (his now wife) at law school in Bologna. They bonded over a shared passion for wine, but it wasn’t until almost a decade after they fell in love that Eloisa took Stefano to her family’s farm in Abruzzo’s Pescara hills—a farm that had been in her family for 250 years but never really talked about. Stefano felt drawn to the land, spending many weekends there absorbing knowledge from the team who ran the farm and its vineyards. Stefano had a glow walking us through the farm and admitted that the farm is where the work is and we need to pay attention to the land everyday. He loves traveling; but feels an obligation to the farm. Their first vintage in 2010 & Stefano celebrates the difference year to year, bottle to bottle.
The farm itself encompasses nearly 200 hectares, with 17 hectares of grapevines, 20 hectares of olive trees, and large swaths dedicated to vegetables, legumes, herbs, and grazing land for cows. Stefano and Eloisa understand that this biodiversity is a key ingredient in the quality of their wines and always work to nurture it. We had a wonderful lunch under this beautiful tree outside the house. We were spoiled by a multi-course lunch with 95% of the ingredients coming from the farm. Stefano’s passion for the land was unmistakable and caused lots of excitement within our group.
A quick dip back in the Adriatic to recharge and we’re back sipping aperitivo before dinner. Dinner is at Trabocco Mucchiola-Gli Ostinati: a historic structure for fishing turned into restaurant. With a kitchen the size of Popina–the chefs turn out beautiful seafood in fun & inventive ways. I sat next to Paolo who works on the farm with Stefano. Paolo is a pretty big deal in winemaking–spending time at top tier producers like Cappellano and Le Boncie. He’s not a big talker; but his presence was felt.
Last day. We rent some bikes and cruise up the trabocchi coast. The ride is absolutely beautiful with hints of salty water and panoramic views. Those aren’t the only views–but be careful, bella donna has caused traffic jams up and down the coast. We land at Trattoria San Domenico where the raw seafood and vongole give everyone a reboot.
Our dinner plans changed a bit because our friend Luca had an emergency; but Stefano helped us get a restaurant at La Bandiera: a family run restaurant and B&B. The food was inventive and unique without being fussy. Sometimes fine dining spots care more about technique than flavor; but everything at La Bandiera was super tasty. We drank well too–more Tiberio fonte canale & colle vota, some Prevost & Lassaigne champagne, Pepe trebbiano, De Fermo chardonnay, some Caprera bianco, Amorotti, and plenty of amaro. I told Jeff we should look at staying there next time–could be fun.
Huge thanks to the lovely people of Abruzzo for the incredible hospitality. We came at a busy time; but you’d never know it given the time you spent with us. We can’t wait to come back.