Tokyo Takeaways | Part Two

For many–January feels like a fresh start. It's a time when there’s less social obligations and you can commit to resolutions you’ll probably forget in February, if you even make it to February. Whether it's going to the gym, starting a diet, cutting down on spending, or less alcohol: the ol’ Dry January–it's never a good time for restaurants. I try to take advantage of this downtime with a little travel & this January I found myself visiting some of the best bars in the world. 

Before I arrived in Tokyo, I was in Bangkok where cocktail culture is in full swing. Thailand doesn’t have a big wine scene because wine is taxed big time; which makes the price of fine wine very expensive. I’ve been lucky enough to travel to Thailand a few times and don’t think I ever saw anyone drinking wine except for at the wedding that I recently attended. It's all about beer and at the right place: a cocktail. 

Bangkok doesn’t have any shortage of bars–from the adult playgrounds of Nana to sophisticated hotel bars recognized as the World’s 50 Best. I will follow up with a dedicated Bangkok post because I had a blast bar hopping and discovering some of the city’s drinking spots from the new kid on the block to the institution. 

But this is about Tokyo –a city that haunts me like a first love. You play it back–again & again, so many questions left unanswered. But you concentrate on the good things, the great things, and hope one day you’ll meet again. 

A Taste of Japanese Bar Culture 

The Japanese have this ability to make everything better—just look at trains, consumer electronics, foods like sushi & tempura, or even the toilet! Have you ever wondered why every uber driver is driving a Camry —it’s because Toyota is a Japanese company and those are some of the most reliable cars on the road. Cocktails are no different as Japan’s hyper-focus on a single subject has allowed them to elevate both modern riffs and classics alike. 

On my first trip to Japan in 2013 we were scrapping by on a backpackers budget so we were more likely to be exploring the wonders of 7-11 versus the Japanese cocktail bar. We did treat ourselves to the occasional hotel bar with a good view; but there was so much more to discover. 

The first thing that carries across much of the culture is the art of mastery or the comprehensive knowledge or skill in a subject. It could be ramen, woodwork, ceramics, coffee or pretty much anything–the Japanese look to learn everything about the subject & present it in its highest form. 

For cocktails–they focus on everything that goes into making a great cocktail: ingredients, ice, technique, and glassware to name a few. In my 10 days of drinking around Tokyo–it felt like the Japanese focused more on the process than we do in the States. This leans hard into craftsmanship whereas the barback works with the ice or the glassware years before being able to make a cocktail for a guest. It's not uncommon for barbacks to work in the same bars for years – learning as much as they could both on the job and at home. Have you watched Jiro Dreams of Sushi? Watch that and you’ll learn a bit more about their commitment to the craft. It’s super admirable and it's like nowhere else in the world. 

More about the process

The Japanese are incredibly efficient and their fluidity behind a bar is almost theater. Bartenders craft each cocktail one at a time–something you don’t see often in a high-volume pumping city like New York. Making drinks one at a time allows bartenders to concentrate solely on that drink; which is super cool; but easier said that done. This ties into the idea of technique whereas bartenders focus on things like temperature and dilution. Its precision, its ceremony–from lining up all the spirits labeled out on the bar to the “hard shake.” There’s no one size fits all here–every drink is treated different: an overproof whiskey might be stirred ten more times than the negroni because the whiskey needs more dilution. They analyze each and every detail from the brand of club soda to the garnish or lack thereof. 

In my time in Tokyo–i’ve noticed they only really use good ingredients whether fresh fruits in peak season or well-made spirits. In the States and elsewhere you might see lower quality spirits making their way into cocktails; but every spirit that got poured was always top shelf. No Rose’s lime juice here–even dive bars seem to have fresh juice and good ice. The ice game in Tokyo was insane. Sometimes bars could have up to 10 different shapes of ice–some for shaking, some for stirring, and some for presentation. In some cases–you also got a carving show from the bartender or barback. These carvings ranged from basic clear blocks or spheres to intricate mini-masterpieces. 

Glassware is also taken very seriously in Tokyo. A look at the backbar could reveal a range of glassware from super-thin Kimura glass to uniquely formed drinking vessels specifically designed for each drink. Some bars as noted in Punch’s article–won’t serve you the requested drink if they don’t have the proper glassware. 

One of the things I loved most about the Tokyo bar scene is the snack game. Depending on the bar–you can have anything from microwaved popcorn to bone broth. Sometimes the snack was paired with a specific drink and other times the snacks just represented hospitality. And that's the thing that stood out most to me about food & drink culture in Tokyo: it was all about hospitality. There seems to be a desire in Japanese culture that puts the needs of an individual or group ahead of your own. You see this brought to life in bars across the city through intricate tailoring of the experience to fit a guest’s needs. 

It's truly incredible: it starts with a greeting when you walk in: everything stops like you’re the most important part of their night. Hospitality comes in many forms through an eating or drinking experience & that’s what truly made Tokyo special. A taste of vintage chartreuse in the cellar, special ordering strawberries for a cocktail, or the gesture of accompanying you down the elevator to street level–its all in the name of hospitality. 

I constantly remind my staff of our mission: to serve great food and drink; but most importantly to make a guest feel better than they arrived. People go to restaurants & bars for all different kinds of reasons: some happy, some sad. Whether you’re feeling good and we make you feel great or you feel shitty and we make you feel ok. It’s all about creating a space where hospitality can lift others up. 

Ginza Bar-Hopping

I’d imagine there’s some haters out there that think the bars of Ginza are over-hyped and overpriced; but I enjoyed bopping around–checking out some of Tokyo’s finest. You have cocktail bars like Star Bar, Tender Bar, or Bar High Five that have a lot of history behind them–whether it's helped define cocktail culture/technique or just happens to represent the old guard. These bars aren’t fancy–they’re often quite simple; but they excel at the classics. There’s also bars like Folklore, Bar Landscape, Bar Hoshi, The Grey Room, Little Smith, Bar Owls, Apollo Bar, or Bar Orchard if you crave the classic; but want something a little different. Some of these bars don’t have menus; so its more of a conversation–so be prepared to describe what you’re looking for. More interested in a rare whiskey–check out Campbelltoun Loch for a crazy and well priced whiskey list. 

Hotel Bars

Not an easy category; because some hotel bars could suck big time; but in other cases: some of the best bars in the world are in hotel whether a ground floor lobby bar or sky high spectacle. I know what you’re thinking–The New York Bar: of course: Lost in Translation! Well, you might be sad to know the Park Hyatt is undergoing a long-term renovation so its currently closed; but there’s plenty of other hotel bars & some might argue they’re way better. I loved my experience at BKK Social Club in the Four Seasons Bangkok; so I was sure to check out Virtú; which was top notch from service, drinks, and ambiance. I also really liked Gold Bar in the Edition; which was a bit more late-night vibey: I think Kanye was there the night before lol. 

The Bulgari Hotel is also a solid option or even Old Imperial Bar within the Imperial Hotel; which is way different but has its own dusty, tucked away charm. 

Cocktail Nerd Map 

Bar Benfiddich, SG Club, Gen Yamamoto, Bar Trench, & The Bellwood are all fantastic bars that seem to be on every cocktail nerd’s to-go list. Most of these spots, like some mentioned above, have made The World’s 50 Best list. 

Other Bars 

Tokyo has a cool record-bar scene & Bar Martha is worth a visit especially if bar hopping solo. Bar Centifolia is kinda ridiculous in its theatrics; but I enjoyed my time there. Be ready for the bar to be lit on fire, ice carving shows, and lots of smoke! In Tokyo you have to look everywhere because there’s bars everywhere! Some bars are down dark hallways or five floors above. You can discover a great bar just as easy as you can miss one. I didn’t have high hopes for Land Bar Artisan –located in a Shinbashi mall; but it was one of my favorites of the trip. There’s also the tiny alleys of Golden-Gai where you’ll a variety of bars; but this part of town in VERY touristy. Good for meeting people and drinking cheap beer. 

Stay Tuned for | Where to Drink Wine in Tokyo