Tokyo Takeaways | Part One
In 2013 I was working at Maialino when some friends convinced me to quit my job and go on an adventure. I remember being intrigued but was far from committing. It seemed reckless –as if being in the hospitality industry wasn’t reckless enough. I loved to travel; but this was unlike anything I had ever done. This wasn’t a bum-around-a-resort kind of trip—it was three months of intense hopping around: going to places I could barely locate on a map & living out of a backpack. I wanted to go; but what about my career goals? Leaving work to “have fun” seemed like a luxury I couldn’t afford. Months went by and the guys chipped away at me — ensuring me there’s always a job for you when you get back.
Eventually, I said fuck it and it was the greatest decision I’ve ever made.
I remember landing in Tokyo and immediately being overwhelmed. Did I fuck up? How the heck am I supposed to get around—I can’t read the language and nobody seems willing to help: even the toilets are confusing! The fear and uncertainty instantly shifted once we figured out the train and made our way to Tsukiji market. It was 4am—we set our bags at the hotel and ripped a whiskey; which probably also helped ease me into the travel shock. We didn’t sleep; but who could sleep when it seemed like the entire ocean was on display at the market. Huge tunas being auctioned off, an eel being butchered, the piercing sound of a knife being sharpened, and someone hawking some ceramics–it was total sensory overload. We roamed around for hours, making our way through each aisle and eventually getting yelled at for being in a private area—oh, did that say restricted?
Sushi for breakfast—when in Tokyo, I suppose? Beers and sushi at Sushi Dai will remain one of those great memories. “Noooo soy sauce” the chefs shouted in a jovial voice as we grabbed each piece of fish from the cramped counter. Lots of Kanpai-ing, laughing, and making new friends. It was the first day; but it was probably the best day. We didn’t stay in Tokyo long though—we couldn’t: it was too expensive for us backpackers. We spent a few days and it was a good introduction to Japan; but we had to keep it moving. We witnessed first hand the wonders of the Japanese convenience store, ate some world class sushi, slurped some insanely delicious ramen, and discovered that bathing suits are not allowed in a Japanese spa. We walked around—saw the scramble and got to see a Sumo wrestling match. But it all happened so quick and it was on to the next one. We left Tokyo for Kyoto & eventually Osaka & Takamatsu; but I felt like there was some unfinished business in Tokyo.
Truth be told—you could live in Tokyo your entire life and still feel like you’ve only scratched the surface. One of the world's biggest (if not the biggest) metropolis —Tokyo has endless nooks to discover & I was so happy to find my way back there in December. The food, the drinks, the people—its all magic. Whether you’re on a backpackers budget or Michelin-star hopping: there’s so much to love about Tokyo.
My trip started with a wedding in Thailand; but there aren’t any direct flights to BKK to my knowledge–so I knew I'd squeeze in another country before and maybe after. As the Thailand itinerary took shape–I started asking myself what is something I love to do that I haven’t done in a long time. The answer was easy–scuba diving. Ok–so I started to think about great diving in that party of the world and my sights set on Palau–a tiny island in Micronesia known for its diving. Getting to Palau is a bit challenging; but I found a flight from Tokyo connecting in Guam and was able to book a roundtrip leaving Tokyo a few weeks later giving me a week in Palau, a week in Thailand, and capping it all off with a week in Tokyo.
Originally my trip was booked for 5 days; but I extended my stay when I got offered a seat at Sushi Sugita —arguably the hardest reservation in Tokyo —maybe the world. I’d love to say the decision to stay was easy; but it wasn’t. Being away from work for so long makes me anxious; so I took a few days and asked some friends for advice. I recalled turning down a free dinner el bulli —a decision that occasionally haunts me. Once I decided to stay—it helped position the trip a bit different. Instead of pack my itinerary —I made some bookings up front and kept the last part free.
Tokyo could be enjoyed in a variety of ways; but here’s some quick notes should you travel to Tokyo. If you’d like more info—please reach out.
I tried to pick a different neighborhood to explore each day. Some neighborhoods you’ll need more time; but it all depends on your interests. I was super lucky to get some great recommendations from friends, so first & foremost: big thanks to Idan, Ivan, Jeff, Adam, Jamie, Dean, Raj, & everyone else that helped shape an incredible stay in Tokyo. As I do in all cities —I pull up google maps and start starring any spots I’d like to check out. I like to walk —helps me get to see the city & also helps get me hungry for the next meal.
Part of exploring new neighborhoods was staying at different hotels. Honestly—I probably would just book one spot next time because moving got annoying. But it was amazing to see a wide range of accommodations from basic to fancy. Having stayed at a variety of hotels gave me a look into the hotel’s hospitality & also reminded me of what I think is important when booking a place to stay.
Tokyo has no shortage of luxury hotels, so you’ll have plenty to pick from if you’re fancy. You’ll recognize most of the names like The Edition, Four Seasons, The Peninsula, and of course the Park Hyatt, which was under renovations on my trip. There’s a ton of mid-range hotels & surprisingly a decent amount of more affordable options if you want to save your yen for food & drink. I stayed in an Air BnB and for the money it was chill; but it's not my thing. Check-in & check-out is so much easier with a hotel & you don’t want to get stuck in limbo lugging around your bags.
My Hotel Picks
Fancy: Aman & Four Seasons Otemachi
*The Aman was pretty awesome; but is it worth 3x the cost of the Four Seasons? I don’t think so. Their pool/spa is pretty epic and their room vista from the bed & bath is phenomenal; but 3 times all other luxury options!
Service is similar and I think 4S has better F&B options; but both have great lobby views to enjoy breakfast or an evening cocktail.
Mid-Range: The Grand Aoyama
*Really loved this hotel —super young/hip crowd & the room was great. Awesome soba spot in the hotel & nearby Omotesandö if you want to walk around & shop.
**Mitsui is another chain that was recommended by some friends; but I didn’t stay there.
Budget-Friendly: The Gate at Hulic Square or Muji Hotel
*Giving the edge to The Gate because of space, bed, and shower; but both were super pleasant. Muji’s compact room seemed small; but not a bad option if you’re spending most of your time out & about.
**Dormy Inn was also recommended by friends but I never got there.
Neighborhood Pick: Ginza
Seems centrally located & plenty of do whether shopping during the day or bar hopping at night.
Other Quick Tips
Tokyo is massive–give yourself enough time to explore and don’t rush it.
Take the Narita Express to and from the airport: taxis are insane: I learned this the hard-way! Almost $300
Download Suica app and use it for the Subway. Trains are the easiest way to get around. Super safe, clean, and efficient.
7-11 is your best friend –whether you want to take out cash or get a hangover cure Ukon no Chikara
eSim works great, so skip the $12/day for roaming. You can download right from app–super easy! This will give you data to use your google maps across town.
Nicer hotels have concierge services for help booking reservations and activities; but even the fanciest hotels can’t guarantee some of Tokyo’s hardest to get seats.
Reservations are a difficult thing to navigate as Japan hit record number of visitors. You can book reservations on Omakase or TABLEALL which charges a fee; but could help you score a more sought-after res. I’m not a big fan of making reservations because it kills spontaneity; but its so important to book some in advance. Some people are booking out a year out and it probably makes sense considering some counters at 8 seats; so thats only 16 people a night. There’s tips and tricks for securing a res based on some tokyo “regs”; but I’m still very much learning. There’s also soooo much great food that doesn’t require a reservation; so don’t stress out. Ramen, Soba, Tonkatsu, and lots of other Japanese specialties don’t require reservations and could be a game-time decision. If you’re going to a popular ramen spot, you’ll likely have to wait; but the staff keeps people moving so the line usually moves pretty fast.
Next Up: TOKYO // PART TWO
A not-so dry January with some great bars to visit around Tokyo.
And then TOKYO // PART THREE
I gained ten pounds–here’s why!